DEFICIENCES IN THE SOIL

Most gardeners are aware that Nitrogen deficiencies can cause stunted or deficient growth, or that a lack of Iron shows up with poorly colored foliage. Less well known are the facts that sulfur and manganese deficiencies are serious issues in the Pacific Northwest. Fritted trace elements FTE used to be available locally and would correct all of these issues. I would add one pound of it to a fifty pound of 5-10-10 and away I would go.

Speaking of that formula, locally we can buy two forms of it. One includes extra Iron and the other has more Sulfer. In autumn we should use the latter. Sulfur is an element that is important for disease control in plants, be it in lawns or in plants. I would use the other in the summer months on vegetables and fruit.

Minor (read minor) trace elements are important for healthy growth; sometimes organics can provide the same.

SOME RECOMMENDATIONS – and NOT!

Bone meal. This is a very slow acting fertilizer and is dependent upon soil temperatures for release. In the Pacific Northwest, I find it to be an expensive fertililizer dollar for dollar. For bulbs, maybe. Mixing with other stuff in a liquid form is another story. Use gloves, as with all organics, esp. bat guano.

Blood meal. Use gloves when handling. It is a quick acting organic fertilizer, great for lawns. Follow the recommended instructions and use at half strength on Bonsai.

Hoof and Horn was my all time favorite in Santa Cruz. Like Bone meal it is a slow release fertilizer and provides Nitrogen and phosphorus as well as a few other trace elements. Use gloves when handling. I do not even know it this is still marketed!

Kelp meal, be it in liquid form or solid. Sometimes sold in a tablet form. I use it all the time ad it is well balanced and provides trace materials.

Epson salts, or Sulfate of Magnesium. In the Pacific Northwest our soils often have
magnesium deficiencies. This is even more remarked on artificial soils such as for
Bonsai or Orchid culture. Adding a small amount of dry Epsom salt in October is just the thing to prevent future loss of color in the leaves. It can also be added to an organic cocktail at half a tsp. per gallon. I usually mix cottonseed, bone meal,
Kelp, blood meal, fish meal in a gallon of water. Let stew for a day and then dilute that down to a pint of concentrate to a gallon. One Tbls. of ea. of the above ingredients.

Liquid Manure or Liquid worm casting tea. This is an old tried and true material. Steep the material in a bucket of water for a few days, drain and dilute to a weak straw color mixture. This like all fertilizers should only be applied to plants AFTER watering. This is a natural and wonderful fertilizer and provides for healthy soil bacteria, which chemicals do not. Rhodies and Azaleas love this!

Oxygen Plus. Unlike some other miracle hyped products like Super Thrive, this product does deliver, especially on root-rotted plants.

Vitamin B-!. Yes and No. Like rooting hormones, always examine the percentage of active ingredient. I am amazed at the differences (sometimes 10 fold) between different products. Monsanto and Roundup are a good?? Example: I have stopped counting the different formulizations, but often as not the worst price values are the ones that market the best.

Liquinox -- A commercial fertilizer that comes in many formulas. A Wunderkind of fertilizers. Is it better than Peters or Miracle Grow? Your guess is as good as mine.

I will edit chemical fertilizers when I have the time.

(copyright) 2009 Herb Senft

NEEM OIL

The use of Neem Oil and or other bio-friendly alternatives to synthetic chemical pesticides -- such as this greenhouse Miltonia.

There are many paths that can be taken to better connect and deal with our environment in more wholesome ways; the time is now! As gardeners we too abuse the environment, often by the poisons and chemicals we overuse in the garden or in the greenhouse. We can no longer continue this ignorant abuse.

Multi-national companies manipulating plant genes to be resistant to pests and to herbicides such as Roundup seems to be the government approved answer to improving agricultural yields -- the irresistible Monsanto wave of the future. Or is there a better alternative?

Neem oil and other organic materials may be but one of those answers. We are approaching a new millennium and perhaps an investigation into these simpler and more earth friendly alternatives may yet propel us into creating a cleaner and more sustaining environment.

WHERE DOES NEEM OIL COME FROM?

Neem oil is the pressed product of the seed of the neem tree (Azadiracta indica Juss.)This tree is indigenous to the tropical dry and deciduous forests of India, Pakistan and Burma at elevations to 1500 meters. It is a beautiful tree that grows some 20-30 m tall, to 2.5 m in girth, and has a broad rounded crown of dark-green foliage. The flowers are fragrant and is a nectar provider for bees . The western boundary for the species seems to be in the eastern mountains of Iran. The tree can also be grown in the milder areas of the United States. It is capable of withstanding mild freezes and is presently being grown in southern coastal California and in Florida.

More exciting is that this is a potential cash crop for many areas of Africa. The tree will grow under adverse hot and dry conditions as long as there is an accessible water table. In such countries it may also help reclaim mined lands as it is nitrogen fixing and will grow on degraded and acidified soils. It also has value as a windbreak, and appears to have exceptional merit as a city tree. For further information, one of the finest sites on this tree can be found here.

Australia is a leading planter of such neem trees and tens of thousands of trees have been planted in plantations for commercial use. Dr Martin Rice, of the University of Queensland, stated that Australia is set to planting millions of the tree by the end of the century. “Twenty-five to fifty million would be needed to replace most of our imported toxic pesticides” Is this the answer to the chemical companies that develop herbicides and who are now altering the food crops to be resistant to their own herbicides? I believe so

The Neem tree has been cultivated in India for more than four thousand of years and has been used in ayurvedic medicine and animal vet medicines. Neem makes an excellent insect control on crops and livestock such as cattle and sheep. One of its original applications was to insert twigs or leaves into areas of planting to control pests. It is also presently rendered into extracts that can be sprayed onto crops. There seems to be little effect to beneficial insects or on birds, it also biodegrades in a matter of weeks.

NEEM OIL-AZADIRACTIN

Because Neem products are also used for human consumption from head lice to diabetes, exposure to neem poses no documented threat to the applicator. In the 1995 EPA ruling, the agency established an exemption from the requirement of residue tolerances and established neem as "a broad-spectrum fungicide /insecticide / miticide on all greenhouse and terrestrial food crops." This regulation basically eliminated the need to establish a maximum permissible level for residues of this product on greenhouse or food crops.

Neem extract antifeedent and growth regulator properties have been linked to be a control on over 200 different insect species. Several of these are already resistant to chemical pesticides. Usually insects rapidly develop resistance to conventional pesticides and as a result ever more is needed to be sprayed, moreover beneficial insects are also killed in this indiscriminate killing. It is reported by the industry "that there are no recorded cases of insect pests ever having developed a resistance to neem. This fact is worth repeating, even more so the surprising nontoxic effects to birds, mammals and beneficial predators such as wasps, spiders and ladybugs."
I think not, that it cannot affect or harm ladybugs, frogs,or predacious mites, yet kill the problem ones is a stretch for me. In most cases some of these predacious insects are even more susceptable to insecticides. Hype aware alert!

Neem's antifeedant properties even effect snails and has been shown to have success in combating fungal problems as well. It is usually used as a foliar spray, but for optimum benefits it should be watered into the root area as well. This procedure I have done with orchid's like the Miltonia (above) that had been seriously infected with mealy bugs and scale. I would further caution all who buy this product to buy small amounts. My experience with the life expectancy is that it does deteriorate if not used within the year. Storage is crucial as well. All too often I see gardeners store their chemicals in the greenhouse or in another uncool site. Please read my other post on Misapplication of chemicals. The use of a safe liquid soap or a soybean activated non ionic surfacant will also help the efficacy of the application.



That said, I found it to be a failure (as were most insecticides) in regards to the root mealybug. Liquid drenches, simply cannot coat all the bark surfaces in an orchid soil mix. We finally had to soak all the plants in tubs filled with the chemical choice. It was a matter of leaning over a tub of toxic fumes, or over that noxious smell of Neem oil. Trust me on this, do not spray or use Neem oil if you plan to go out on a date.

Antifeedant properties can be loosely described as when a substance discourages insect feeding but does not directly kill the insect. but acts in a longer torturous way. Neem -Azadirachtin also acts by creating hormonal disruptions and blocking their endocrine systems, which prevent the insect from feeding, breeding, or metamorphosing/molting.

By utilizing such environmentally friendly pesticide policies we also help to preserve our own quality of life. Practicing organic Pest Control Management and utilizing products such as neem may yet save us from the ever growing over-dependency on chemical pesticides and genetically altered food sources.

For more information on neem see the website for the Neem Foundation or from an eMail I just received forestry.about.com

(Copyright) Herb Senft 1993

Spider Mites

In the summer months, I'm Having Mitemares...

They're back! Just what you don't want to find on your bonsai or greenhouse plants.

Spider mites. Most species will attack deciduous trees and shrubs but the spruce spider might prefers conifers and is especially damaging to spruces. Its damage can continue throughout winter. Drought stressed plants are especially affected, be it forests, agricultual corn, alfalfa or nursery plants. Increasing humidty, by spraying or irrigating more often will help; more on that later.



In CA, we used cygon and kelthane primarily; the former is not for sale for the home gardener. Malathion used with Safer Oil, or a soybean activated surfacatant such as 'Preference.' , sticking agent (wetting compound) worked to a lesser degree. Some people used Basic H as that wetting agent. Here in WA. State I ended up using wettable Orthene, which is a rather toxic chemical and would have to be ordered on line, as it is not sold for retail use. Neem oil is a potential possible alternative, but my experiences with it have been less than positive on all soil born insects.

None of these insecticides will ever eliminate the pests for slowly but surely, the survivors build up a resistance to whatever you use. Therefore, a careful and well-documented rotation of chemicals should be used. Washing the plant down, even using a pressure hose on say Alberta spruce, will dislodge the adult and young, but will not dislodge the eggs. Safer oil or other oil-based formulas should be used. Those eggs will hatch in a month or less, so the treatment should be done again. This battle will continue throughout the summer months.

There are biological controls, which might be tested. There are predacious mites which feed on these and it is something to investigate. The gamble is this, during their usage or test one cannot use any chemical at all. They are even more sensitive than the mites you are trying to eliminate and will be wiped out very quickly. If they do not do the job, your plants may be seriously damaged by lack of chemical or other treatments.Source one.

Source two being Nature's Control. I would further caution all who would buy such Predatory mites that even "safer" insecticids such as the Pyrethryn family should not be used. Although Pyrethryn like Nicotine sulfate breaks down quickly, most of them are encapsulated to make the product a slow time release. This causes it to be effective for two weeks and though weakened enough not to work on the pests, it remains strong enough to kill off the Hired help.

Systemics may also provide a solution, but technically speaking cannot be recommended unless so labeled. That said, I used a granular turf product and have used it sparingly on Orchids and Cactus to control root mealybugs. It is not so labeled, but I suspect that it might also be used to control weevil and other grub insects in Bonsai. If this is a potential problem for you, I would consider applying some of it beginning in July.

Arbico Organics is one source for predatory insects. I tried to put a link to their site, but it would not work. You will have to google them.

I also found this to be a informative article. Do read

© 2009 Herb Senft

Misapplication of chemicals.

Plant damage caused by the misapplication of pesticides or fertilizer.

In summer or fall, we often find ourselves handling damaged plants because of the misapplication of pesticides or fertilizer.

Some general guidelines are:

1. Never apply a pesticide or fertilizer to plants that are stressed or wilted. If still needed it must be done with care and under certain guidelines.
2. Never spray during the heat of the day, and avoid spraying during hot sunny periods. Spray pesticides or fertilizer in the morning hours. The earlier, the better. Pre-moistened foliage will also accept chemical applications with less damage. Systemic pesticides will also be taken up better as that is when the plant is moving nutrients. It is also the best time to wire and bend limbs. The opposite is true in the afternoon.
3. 3. If you can, say with bonsai --keep the plant shaded for a few days after spraying, and then spray again in a week or two, depending on the pest species. Mites are in the one-two week range. Rotate the sprays. Remember that affected foliage DOES NOT recover even after spraying. Prevention
and quick mitigation is always needed.
4. Your spraying regime should also involve "drying out" time. Applying a chemical to a plant during extended overcast, humid conditions may increase the possibility of injury. This is why all the spraying or fertilizing and watering in an Orchid greenhouse I managed was done in the morning and never towards the end of the day. the foliage should never stay wet overnight for all sorts of reasons.
5. Rotating organic and non-organic (both are chemicals -- a fact ignored) applications is always advised. Sometimes "organics" can actually be more deadly than the so manufactured Chemical. Nicotine sulfate is a good example. Dermal and Oral toxicity to human tissue was about as lethal as one could imagine. Battling root mealy bugs, we would rotate Orthene, Malathion and Neem Oil. For other problems I also experimented with Garlic sprays and Basic H, and Cinnamon powder was used to dust damaged tissues.
6. Never mix two different chemicals, unless you have a pest applicators license. It may work, but you really don't know what you are creating!

Some indicators of fertilizer or pesticide damage are curled, burned or misshapen leaves.
One experiment in "organic" pesticide is the following concoction.

In a blender grind up some Asiatic garlics , add a Tbl. of Cayenne Pepper blend up. Strain this in a used (and forever kept separate)* drip Melitta coffee filter. This quart of drained liquid should be further diluted until you have a gallon of spray. Basic H, or a tsp. of Palmolive or Dawn should be added. Mix well and spray.


* My former ex (I prefer dead-headed spouse) found it not funny when she used the same (and I had cleaned it out!) Mileta filter for her morning coffee. I had no idea that those ingredients would permanently impregnate the plastic.

Since that time I have refined that formula.

GARLIC -- as an insecticide. Take 3 oz. of chopped garlic and let soak in 2 tsp. of mineral oil for 24 hr. Then slowly add a pint of water in which 1/4 oz of an oil based soap has been added. (Palmolive). Add one Tbls. of Cayanne Pepper. Stir well. Strain the liquid through fine gauze and store in a glass container. Keep refrigerated or it will really stink! Use in a dilution of one part to 20 parts of water to begin with, then one part to 100 of water after. Apply as a spray. I believe most of that began with that garlic site over a decade ago.
Rather than the Melita thing, use some cheese cloth or panty hose.

I will add a 2009 edit. For years I have suffered from an "Alder allergy" which affected me for over a month every Spring. After stopping my spraying of Copper I have had no such reactions. I was not suffering from allergies -- I was suffering from chemical overdoses of what I was spraying for decades.

To put reference to a serious lung disease that my Aunt died of: I will add that "Anthracosis" (not a plant disease) is human based and caused by the the accumulation of carbon particles in the lung. The common culprit being the gulping down of carbon, be it from tobacco, diesel fumes or the burning of late summer plant debris. All is dirt to your lungs and to your body and it never gets rid of it. It stays in your lungs until you too return to carbon.



© 2009 Herb Senft